lodemia
Senior Member
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2016
- Messages
- 189
- Reaction score
- 164
I had a $500 gift card to Joseph A Bank that I needed to blow, and I had been toying around with trying out the MTM service that they have started offering. I worked with the manager, and I was told that I was the first one to order anything MTM in their store, so I got a lot of "attention" if you will, and the manager personally handled the fitting.
First, the basics. This is the same MTM program from Joseph Abboud that Men's Wearhouse uses. The fabrics and linings are specific to JAB, and the "names" of the suits shares the same name as the JAB version. You have your choice of two starting points:
The 1905 is a lower end, completely fused model. You're limited to certain wools and linings. The Reserve is half-canvassed and matches the partially deconstructed display that they had in-store. It also opens up a wide variety of cloths that you can use.
Fabrics - good selections, and prices vary, depending on the material selected. I was surprised that the low end were still good wools, and you could go up to Ermenegildo Zegna if you wanted. The linings had a good selection of 100% bemberg, and were available in a number of colors and patterns. You could choose both the lining and the sleeves, but there were no options for an unconstructed jacket or a half-lined jacket if you wanted something lighter.
The sales associates are trained to have you try on a number of jackets in the JAB Reserve line and make modifications from there based on your actual size. They literally enter the model number of the coat and trousers in the order form. We started with a size 46L for the jacket and made modifications from there. They do take basic measurements of chest, chest under arm, and waist for the form, but I can't tell that this is actually used for anything.
On the coat, you have the following "free" options:
For the trousers, you can choose
There are "upgrades" that you can purchase as the garment is made:
Now, on to the measurements. For the coat, you are adjusting up or down based on the model you tried on, so instead of an absolute measurement, you are taking in or letting out in 1/4" increments. Here's the measurements from the order form:
Pant Adjustments (again, adjustment from whatever you tried on)
Vest Adjustments
Finally you can personalize - adding name or initials. I added initials.
I purposefully chose one of their lowest price point wools, a nice Lanificio di Pray super 120. I also caught it during a 50% off sale. I made a jacket only, half-canvassed (Reserve) with functioning button holes, contrast stitching, pick stitching, Bemberg lining, and monogramming. The pre-sale price was $933, but I got out for $466.50. Half was due at time of order. I believe this is non-refundable, but I'm not certain.
Timing - They said it would take up to 8 weeks, but I had the jacket in less than 5. When it came in, it had a bit of collar role, so I had the in-house tailor adjust that out. It's completely my posture, and completely addressable with better measurement prior to order.
The positives: Made in the USA! I am pleased with both the quality, and the value delivered for the price. $466 for a custom half-canvassed jacket is a very good deal. In addition, there was a bit of a rock-star appeal to being the first one to actually try this program in their store. Nothing would sway me from my current bespoke or MTM, but they definitely have their place, and by watching the sales, I can come up with some creative garments for occasional wear fairly economically.
The neutral: With any MTM program, you're limited with what you can do in the confines of their system, which means being limited to their linings, their cuts, and their finishing touches. For example, I would have preferred this be a half-lined coat, but that simply isn't an option in this program. Neither are natural shoulders, or different shoulder finishes. Nor can you pick out which buttons, you're stuck with whatever they decide matches. You can customize, but that's exactly what you're doing, creating a custom version of an off-the-rack suit. Don't expect the level of changes that you are accustomed to with a high end MTM or bespoke. It's not there.
The negative: I knew I was an early adopter, but their teams could really use some more training on measuring and custom-fitting. I mentioned the neck-roll issue above. That's a minor posture adjustment that is easily compensated at measurement time. I felt like I was teaching them as we filled out the order sheet, and I was walking through the levels of their wools letting them know when they had a quality cloth, which linings to steer people toward for different purposes, what the different style of pockets is good for, etc.
Finally, either you or your sales associate should know how to order and measure for a custom suit. If you're familiar with other MTM programs, you can have a good fitting and guide your sales associate. However, if you're new to having something custom made, and they aren't confident in what they're doing, walk away and use a tailor you trust. Custom garments should give you a boost of confidence.
Bottom line - I got a great deal because I had a gift card I needed to spend anyway. For me, it was rather low risk. However, even if I would have paid the asking price, I think that the program delivers a good product for the money spent. Like all things JAB, I wouldn't pay full price for it, so keep an eye out for the sales. 50% off is as low as they go - per the manager.
First, the basics. This is the same MTM program from Joseph Abboud that Men's Wearhouse uses. The fabrics and linings are specific to JAB, and the "names" of the suits shares the same name as the JAB version. You have your choice of two starting points:
- The 1905 collection
- The Reserve Collection
The 1905 is a lower end, completely fused model. You're limited to certain wools and linings. The Reserve is half-canvassed and matches the partially deconstructed display that they had in-store. It also opens up a wide variety of cloths that you can use.
Fabrics - good selections, and prices vary, depending on the material selected. I was surprised that the low end were still good wools, and you could go up to Ermenegildo Zegna if you wanted. The linings had a good selection of 100% bemberg, and were available in a number of colors and patterns. You could choose both the lining and the sleeves, but there were no options for an unconstructed jacket or a half-lined jacket if you wanted something lighter.
The sales associates are trained to have you try on a number of jackets in the JAB Reserve line and make modifications from there based on your actual size. They literally enter the model number of the coat and trousers in the order form. We started with a size 46L for the jacket and made modifications from there. They do take basic measurements of chest, chest under arm, and waist for the form, but I can't tell that this is actually used for anything.
On the coat, you have the following "free" options:
- Coat/vest type (single/double)
- Lapel style and width
- Vents
- Pocket type
- Number of buttons
For the trousers, you can choose
- Plain/pleated
- Pocket treatment
There are "upgrades" that you can purchase as the garment is made:
- Functional Buttonholes ($50)
- Ticket Pocket (Unkn)
- Slanted Pockets (Unkn)
- Pick Stitching ($0.00 on my invoice)
- Framed Edging
- Formal Trim
- Thread Color ($15) - if you want contrast thread, it changes the bottom buttonhole, the lapel, and the under collar all the same color.
- Fabric Back Vest (Unkn)
- Pant Shirt Grippers
- Suspender Buttons
- Pant Finish
Now, on to the measurements. For the coat, you are adjusting up or down based on the model you tried on, so instead of an absolute measurement, you are taking in or letting out in 1/4" increments. Here's the measurements from the order form:
- Erect
- Stooped
- Square Shoulders
- Sloped Shoulders
- Raise/Lower Collar
- R/L sleeve length
- Sides (in/out)
- Coat Seat
- Raise/Lower (R/L shoulder)
- Coat Length
- Shoulder Point to Point
- Large Bicep
Pant Adjustments (again, adjustment from whatever you tried on)
- Waist
- Seat
- Rise
- Knee
- Bottom
- Lower Front Rise
- Erect
- Stooped
Vest Adjustments
- Sides
- Length
Finally you can personalize - adding name or initials. I added initials.
I purposefully chose one of their lowest price point wools, a nice Lanificio di Pray super 120. I also caught it during a 50% off sale. I made a jacket only, half-canvassed (Reserve) with functioning button holes, contrast stitching, pick stitching, Bemberg lining, and monogramming. The pre-sale price was $933, but I got out for $466.50. Half was due at time of order. I believe this is non-refundable, but I'm not certain.
Timing - They said it would take up to 8 weeks, but I had the jacket in less than 5. When it came in, it had a bit of collar role, so I had the in-house tailor adjust that out. It's completely my posture, and completely addressable with better measurement prior to order.
The positives: Made in the USA! I am pleased with both the quality, and the value delivered for the price. $466 for a custom half-canvassed jacket is a very good deal. In addition, there was a bit of a rock-star appeal to being the first one to actually try this program in their store. Nothing would sway me from my current bespoke or MTM, but they definitely have their place, and by watching the sales, I can come up with some creative garments for occasional wear fairly economically.
The neutral: With any MTM program, you're limited with what you can do in the confines of their system, which means being limited to their linings, their cuts, and their finishing touches. For example, I would have preferred this be a half-lined coat, but that simply isn't an option in this program. Neither are natural shoulders, or different shoulder finishes. Nor can you pick out which buttons, you're stuck with whatever they decide matches. You can customize, but that's exactly what you're doing, creating a custom version of an off-the-rack suit. Don't expect the level of changes that you are accustomed to with a high end MTM or bespoke. It's not there.
The negative: I knew I was an early adopter, but their teams could really use some more training on measuring and custom-fitting. I mentioned the neck-roll issue above. That's a minor posture adjustment that is easily compensated at measurement time. I felt like I was teaching them as we filled out the order sheet, and I was walking through the levels of their wools letting them know when they had a quality cloth, which linings to steer people toward for different purposes, what the different style of pockets is good for, etc.
Finally, either you or your sales associate should know how to order and measure for a custom suit. If you're familiar with other MTM programs, you can have a good fitting and guide your sales associate. However, if you're new to having something custom made, and they aren't confident in what they're doing, walk away and use a tailor you trust. Custom garments should give you a boost of confidence.
Bottom line - I got a great deal because I had a gift card I needed to spend anyway. For me, it was rather low risk. However, even if I would have paid the asking price, I think that the program delivers a good product for the money spent. Like all things JAB, I wouldn't pay full price for it, so keep an eye out for the sales. 50% off is as low as they go - per the manager.
if I spent a fortune on a true mtm. I really appreciate your review and I think it actually helped me to decide to go for it. Also I did want to mention that menswearhouse is cheaper than JAB however MW makes there mtm lines in China and JAB makes there's in the USA.
